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and swell.While the generating wind blows, the
resultingwavesarereferredtoas‘sea’or‘seastate’.
When the winds stops or changes direction, waves
that continue on without relation to local winds are
called‘swell’.TheWMOgivethesedefinitionsas:
Windwaveorwindsea:
Wavesraisedbythewind
blowing in the immediate neighbourhood of an
observationsiteatthetimeofobservation.
Swell:Anysystemofwaterwaveswhichhasleft
its generating area (or observed when the wind
fieldthatgeneratedthewavesnolongerexists).
Waves are generated at a
broad spectrum of
frequenciesandseadoesnothaveaperiodassociated
withitonlyaheight.Incontrast,swelliscomposedof
gravity waves that have been generated elsewhere
and have propagated.Gravity waves experience
frequency dispersion, i.e. waves of different
frequencies travel at different speeds and swell
becomessorted
intowavesofdifferentfrequenciesas
it propagates away from the generating area, with
longperiodswellsarrivingfirst.
Theremaybeaheavy swellpresenteventhough
thewindsarelight.TheDSSwascreatedspecifically
to address this by treating sea and swell separately.
Bydefinitionswellis
notrelatedtothelocalwindand
itisthereforequiteincorrecttolinktheDouglas Sea
Scale Sea State 3 with the Douglas Sea Scale swell
description.
The Douglas Sea and Swell scale has 2
components:‘sea’and‘swell’whichbydefinitionare
independent variables. The Douglas Sea Scale is
reported as 2 numbers; the first referring to the
DouglasSeaState;andthesecondreportingtheswell.
ForexampleiftheDouglasSeaStateheightis1.25m
and the swell is described as short and heavy, then
the Douglas Sea Scale is 36. The WMO has adopted
theDouglas
SeaScale[4]forthereportingofseastate
bymarinersandrecommendsthattheterminologyis
usedin forecasts for shipping[5]. Unfortunately this
format is rarely used and typically only Sea State is
provided.
Douglas Sea Scale 3, as commonly referred to in
Charter Party Agreements, only refers to
the wind
generatedwaveheightandfrequentlyomitstheswell
component.Thelackofaquantifiedvalueforswell
then makes comparison with NWP problematic and
createsproblems for chartercompanieswho wishto
query warranty performance.NWP wave models
are spectral models which work by calculating the
total level
of wave energy in the ocean and then
assigningittoatwo‐dimensionalfrequency‐direction
domain(termedthewavespectrum)usedtodescribe
the average motion of the sea‐surface under waves.
Essentiallythespectrumdecomposesagivensea‐state
into a set of constituent sine waves, each with a
differentdirection,period(inverseoffrequency)and
amplitude(energy).Someofthesearedesignatedas
‘swell waves’ whilst others are designated as ‘wind
waves’.
There is one output parameter that combines sea
and swell that can be meaningfully compared to
observed wave heights. This is the Significant Wave
Height which
is a measure of combined ‘sea’ and
‘swell’andisdefinedasfourtimesthesquarerootof
thefirstmomentofthewavespectrum;thisiscloseto
the average height of the highest 1/3 of the waves
(andhasitsoriginsinMunk &Sverdrup1947[6])and
is
what shipborne observers are expected to report.
Measurements of Significant Wave Height are the
mainsourceofdataforwavemodelsandarederived
from remote sensing using space borne Synthetic
ApertureRadar(SAR)andaltimeters.Measurements
of Significant Wave Height from buoys are also
assimilatedandprovidegroundtruth.
Significant Wave Height therefore represents a
‘commoncurrency’ between observations and NWP.
Weather service providers commonly apply a
SignificantWaveHeightof2.0metresasequivalentto
aCharterPartyentryofDSS3.Howevertherehasnot
yetbeenadefinitiverulingonthisinArbitrationand
theuseof
DSSinCharter Partiescontinueswith the
swellpartomittedinmanycases.
Setting aside issues around height, the period of
theswellcanalsohaveabearingontheseakeepingof
the vessel and hence impact performance – if
successive waves strike the side of a vessel at the
samephaseofsuccessiverolls,relativelysmallwaves
can cause heavy rolling [7]. The IMO has published
algorithms and guidance for Masters for avoiding
dangeroussituations[8]whichcanreadilybeapplied
topredicttheimpactofswellonseakeepingandship
safety (covering reduction of intact stability,
synchronousrollingand
parametricroll,etc.).
5 ACCURACYOFNWP
Theanalysisandforecastsofsurfacewindaremature
andhavea high degree of reliability.For example,
Figure 3 verifies forecast windspeed against
windspeedobservedatmannedobservingstationsin
Europe where the observations are reliable.It
indicates a forecast accuracy of
+/‐ 1 knot at T+72
hours i.e. 3 days.Similarly the most skillful wave
analyseswhencomparedtobuoysareaccurateto+/‐
0.3metre.
Figure3:RMSErrorofECMWFforecastsof10mwindspeed
atT+48and72(Source:ECMWF)
NWPanalysesarebasedonobservationsandare
themostaccurate depiction of the conditions at that
time.Windanalysesarereadilyavailableat6hourly
intervals at 0000/0600/1200/1800UTC and waves at
0000/1200UTCdaily.Eachmodelcreates‘snapshots
ofreality’as3hourlyforecastsfromtheanalysisbase
time. NWP
models therefore have a temporal
granularityof3hoursandiftheshippositionreport